Most PTO-driven implements for walk-behind tractors have a gearbox for the rotating shafts/gears. The “rule of thumb” on implement gearboxes is to keep the oil level at ½ full. There are usually no dip-sticks on implements, but half-full can be determined by simply looking at the gearbox and judging roughly half the height…this will typically result in the gear oil level being about 2 inches below the top of the filler port. You can also stick a wire or thin screwdriver in to gauge the level. EXCEPTION: The Berta Rotary Plows have an oil fill/check port on the SIDE of their gearbox, oriented at the halfway point. So all you have to do is remove the plug with the plow sitting level on its plow rotor (OFF the tractor, so the top cover of the plow is parallel to the ground), and if oil oozes out, the oil level is correct. If none comes out, put oil in until it wants to come back out the hole.

TIPS ON CHECKING OIL LEVELS IN TILLER IMPLEMENTS: On the BCS brand tillers manufactured after 1987, the top cover of the tiller needs to be raised in order to get to the oil plug on top of the gearbox. To do this, remove the two nuts & bolts in the back, under the cover (one links the cover brace to the gearbox, the other links the depth-bar together…you need 2 – 13mm wrenches) and then use the large front bolt & nut as a “hinge”, and flip the cover up so you can check the oil. On Grillo brand tillers, the oil plug is on the right side of the gearbox…there are 5 bolts around the “edge” of the gearbox cover that hold the cover onto the gearbox body, and then there is this “extra” bolt that is more toward the middle/rear, at the “halfway up” point. THAT one is the oil plug. With the tiller attached to the tractor, take the plug out and if oil oozes out, the level is correct. If no oil comes out, it is low and needs to be added. This is such a small hole, getting oil in can be a real bugger. We find that using a turkey baster with a thin needle works great; just stick it down in the hole and squeeze oil in a little at a time until it oozes back out.

The type of oil used in most implement gearboxes is SAE 90w, 80w90 or 85w140 gear oil or any similar-weight gear oil. Implements are not typically choosy about oil weight…it is more important that there is oil in it!! EXCEPTION: The R2 Rinaldi brand Power Harrows recommend an EP, NLGI “0” Grease (in mechanic or electrician lingo, “One Ot” Grease) …this is a very light-weight grease, which liquefies (when at operating temperature) to a thick gear oil. (EP stands for Extreme Pressure). NOTE: if you have trouble finding the “0” grease specified above, get “00” grease…this is available at Tractor Supply stores as “Cotton Picker Spindle Grease”…this is a bit lighter, but will work fine

Oil level in implements should be checked AT LEAST once per year, and MORE in implements where the output shaft is exposed to lots of material that could wrap around the shaft and damage the oil seals (such as a Brush Mower). Gear oil in implements does not need to be changed much, since implement gearboxes are typically “sealed” (non-vented), and therefore moisture cannot get in. Still, it is a good idea to change gear oil every two or three years….UNLESS you switch to Synthetic gear oil, in which case you can leave the stuff in there 10 years or more, as synthetic gear oil has amazing lifespan characteristics. (Most synthetic gear oil is something like 75w90 or 75w140, and these are fine.)

Only a few implements have grease fittings on them; these are lubricated with multi-purpose grease in a standard zerk-type grease gun. These implements are:

• Lawn mowers: On front caster wheels; grease every 30 hours of use
• Haybalers: (various locations); grease every 50 hours of use
• Hayrakes: (various locations); grease every 50 hours of use
• Cutter bar mowers:
  • Oil bath type: on “float” joint near where mower attaches to tractor; grease once per year.
  • Newer Double-action cutter bars: same as above, plus on blade drive pins; grease every 20 hours of use.
  • Grease-gearbox type: grease all 3 fittings every 4 - 6 hours of use
• Power Harrow: On PTO mount “swivel”, mesh-roller axle and screw-crank for height adjustment; grease every 20 hours of use
• Flail Mowers: Each end of mower blade shaft, and, depending on brand, also possibly on the end of “transfer” shaft (right of input gearbox): Grease every 40 hours of use (JUST 2 PUMPS). On Berta brand flail mowers, if equipped with a quick-coupling to attach to the tractor, also keep the male quick-coupling greased as needed (so it does not get “dry”)—you just have to smear some grease on, there is not fitting here. ALSO: if your flail mower is equipped with front “caster” wheels, there are probably grease fittings on those. Grease every 30 hours of use.
• Brush Mowers: On “swivel” joint that allows mower to “float” with ground contours; grease every 20 hours of use.
• Crimper/Roller: Axle shaft; grease once per year; just a couple pumps on each bearing.
• Rescia Guiliano brand Snowblowers: Chain-drive enclosure; grease every 20 hours of use (10 pumps max).

If you have an implement NOT listed here, and you see a grease fitting on it…by all means, grease it!! We are not infallible …